Marine & boat battery systems, designed & fitted in Townsville.
Cranking, house, dual-battery and trolling-motor systems — plus full yacht and superyacht builds — matched to how you boat and built to handle NQ heat and salt.
Large yacht power systems, engineered end-to-end
Cruising yacht, bluewater catamaran or superyacht — we design and build serious 12V, 24V and 48V systems, from a few kVA up to parallel and three-phase installations. We've built plenty of these house banks around 24V 280Ah ATG lithium blocks, paired with genuine Victron inverter/chargers, solar and monitoring.
- Victron MultiPlus-II inverter/charger
- 24V 280Ah ATG lithium house bank
- SmartSolar MPPT + alternator DC-DC
- Cerbo GX & GX Touch monitoring
- 2 × Victron Quattro (dual AC input)
- Large 24V ATG lithium bank (multiple 280Ah)
- 1kW+ solar across multiple MPPTs
- Twin smart alternators + BuckBoost DC-DC
- Auto-start generator & isolation transformer
- Parallel & 3-phase MultiPlus-II (to 48/15000)
- Scalable to 75kW / 90kVA
- Lynx Smart BMS power distribution
- Autotransformer & shore management
- Redundant, no-break AC (under 20 ms transfer)
Marine battery systems, explained
A good boat setup keeps your motor starting and your electronics running — without one flattening the other. Most boats run a dedicated cranking battery to start the outboard and a separate deep-cycle house battery for sounders, lights, fridge and a stereo, joined by an automatic isolator so the two never cross. Add an electric trolling motor and you'll want its own 12V, 24V or 36V bank. We design, supply and fit the right combination for how you fish.
The four marine batteries
Cranking (starting)
High cold-cranking amps to fire up your outboard fast. Not designed for deep discharge — its job is starting.
Deep cycle / house
AGM or lithium built to run electronics, lights and a fridge for hours and be discharged deeply, day after day.
Dual purpose
A compromise that both starts and runs modest loads — ideal for smaller tinnies with basic gear.
Trolling motor
Deep-cycle 12V, 24V or 36V banks (or ATG lithium) sized to your motor's thrust for a full day on the water.
How it stays charged
Outboard alternator
Your motor charges the cranking battery, and a DC-DC or VSR passes charge to the house battery while you run.
Solar
A panel and MPPT keeps the house and trolling batteries topped while you're anchored or on the trailer.
240V on-board charger
A waterproof multi-bank charger tops every battery between trips — essential for trolling-motor banks.
How much house battery?
Add up what your electronics draw over a typical day on the water. AGM you use to about half; lithium you can use almost all of, and it's far lighter — a big deal on a boat.
| Item | Typical draw |
|---|---|
| Fish finder / sounder | ~3 Ah/hr |
| GPS / chartplotter | ~2 Ah/hr |
| Nav & deck lights | ~2 Ah/hr |
| Livewell / bait pump | ~4 Ah/hr |
| 12V fridge / esky | ~3 Ah/hr |
| Stereo | ~2 Ah/hr |
| VHF radio (standby) | ~1 Ah/hr |
Lithium saves 60–70% of the weight of AGM for the same usable power — and charges far faster off your outboard.
Marine wiring diagrams
Three common boat setups, from a single cranking battery to a full trolling-motor rig. Every job is wired, fused and sealed for the marine environment.
12V, 24V or 36V?
Match the battery bank to your electric motor's thrust. More thrust needs more voltage — and lithium keeps the weight in the back of the boat sensible.
| Motor thrust | System | Battery bank |
|---|---|---|
| Up to ~55 lb | 12V | 1 × 12V deep cycle or lithium |
| ~55–80 lb | 24V | 2 × 12V in series, or 1 × ATG 24V lithium |
| ~80–112 lb | 36V | 3 × 12V in series, or 1 × ATG 36V lithium |
Boat battery selector
Three quick questions and we'll suggest a starting point.
Designed & fitted for your boat
Tell us your boat, motor and electronics. We work out cranking, house and trolling needs.
We spec the batteries, isolator, charging and marine-grade wiring and fusing.
Genuine Century, ATG lithium and Victron gear, sealed and rated for the salt.
Tidy install, every circuit tested, and we show you how it all works.
Marine battery FAQs
Do I need one battery or two?
If you run electronics, a sounder, a fridge or a stereo, a two-battery setup is best — a cranking battery to start the outboard and a deep-cycle house battery for everything else, joined by an automatic isolator so you never get stranded.
AGM or lithium for the house battery?
Lithium (LiFePO4) is lighter, charges faster off your outboard and gives you nearly all its capacity. AGM costs less up front and suits smaller or occasional setups. We'll match it to your boat and budget.
Can you build a big yacht or catamaran system?
Yes. We design and build 12V, 24V and 48V systems around Victron inverter/chargers and 24V ATG lithium house banks — from a single cruising-yacht setup up to parallel and three-phase superyacht installations with full monitoring.
What size battery does my trolling motor need?
It depends on the motor's thrust: up to ~55 lb runs 12V, ~55–80 lb runs 24V, and ~80–112 lb runs 36V. See the guide above — or tell us your motor and we'll sort it.
Can you fit it, or is it supply only?
Both. We can supply the batteries and gear, or design and professionally fit the whole system in Townsville, wired and sealed for the marine environment.
Will it handle NQ heat and salt?
Yes — we use sealed marine-grade batteries, tinned cable, and corrosion-resistant terminals and fusing built for North Queensland conditions.
Ready to sort your boat's power?
Tell us your boat, motor and electronics — we'll design the right marine battery system and quote it, supplied or fitted.